Wednesday February 24
Well, we found out a bit more about Valparaiso last night. Went for a bit of a trundle up from the hotel and found the most amazing bohemian neighbourhood. Little cobbled lanes everywhere. The most beautiful street art on nearly every building. Cafes, restaurants, bits of music all over the place. The whole area is built on a steep hill. There are views across to other hills with more art and also lots of ramshackle buildings. There are a few cable cars to make life easier. There was a playground with a slide running from one level to the next. It's a real gem.
It turns out Valparaiso was developed in the flat areas beside the sea when the initial town was a wealthy port. As poorer people arrived they moved up the hill to the cheaper land and built wherever; the further up the hill the cheaper. The hills are still the domain of the poor but these people expressed their frustrations through street art (after democracy was restored in 1990). Some of the areas have become wonderful tourist and bohemian places.
We started the day with a two and a half hour walking tour. It took us to many parts of Valparaiso. Good explanations of the town's history, some of the politics. A bus ride through the hills and the poorer parts was rough and very interesting. Many hovels. Much street art. Much poverty. More walking through some of the poorer parts. A visit to an infamous prison from Pinochet times (torture and killing was done on a boat out to sea rather than at the prison). A ride on the trolley bus and finally a small drink of white wine with Coca Cola which is one of the local favourites.
Once again on our own we visited a market very similar to the Queen Vic in Melbourne, but with way cheaper fruit and veg. A boat ride around the harbour in the afternoon to see the big ships moored there and get a different perspective of the town.
A full and interesting day.
Plaza Sotomayor
The tour guides wear "Where's Wally" T- shirts
An interesting local. The earthquake in 2010 caused the statue to lose his forearm
The poorer areas on the hill
Street art and the Cerro Conception elevator in action
Near the port area
View of part of town from the boat. There are 12 hills altogether.
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